If you’re into scale-ish looking submicro helis this is for you: Nanoheli (nanoheli.net) is developing a flexible shaftdrive solution for the tailrotor of the Walkera 4G6 / 4#6. The flexible shaftdrive is designed for the scale-ish bodies that nanoheli is offering. Also just announced is the Sikorsky S-61 Sea King body from Nanoheli.
First pics of the flexdrive shaft look promising, but we don’t know yet how the servo linkage is going to work. Lets see what Nanoheli will come up with.
Flexible shaftdrive for the Walkera 4G6/4#6 from Nanoheli
Here is my Walkera 4G6 landing gear. Hybrid design made from parts of the original 4G6 gear and an old HM52#1 gear (see my older post here), held together by shrink tube and ca. The 4G6 gear is super lightweight and unbrakable and the HM52#1 mounting provides a wider spread so the heli has more stability on the ground and during landings. Total weight incl. screws is 2.2gm only, so its weight is even less then the original Walkera 4G6 LG (2.4gm).
Hybrid 4G6 / HM52 landing gear on the 4G6 - sideview
Hybrid 4G6 / HM52 landing gear on the 4G6 - mounting
As the 30mm wide Zippy lipos (450, 600mAh) wont fits into the stock Walkera 4G6 landing gear i have removed the battery holder from and cut the LG in the middle of the front mounting. Drilled a second whole and used a longer screw to mount it.
Now the distance between the struts big enough for 30mm Zippys. Lipo is held by a rubber band. Maybe not the most elegant solution, but less weight than any other landing gear. Stabilty of the LG is still strong.
When using the metal bladegrips you will need spacers in order to have the ball links exactly in the center over the flybar.
I took some M1 hexnuts, drilled them to 1.5mm inner diameter and used them as spacers. they are about 0.7mm thick, this is perfect for my setup. What kind of spacer thickness to use depends on how tight your bladegrips are on the feathering shaft, the space between rotorhead and bladegrips. 0.7mm spacers should be perfect for the stock setup. If you use the plastic bladegrips the bosses have to be trimmed down a bit.
The video shows how to check if you have the correct spacers. Notice that the ball links line up almost perfectly in the video. If they are not in line you will get friction and vibrations in the rotorhead.
The stock Walkera 4G6 mixer arms have way too much play, also no ball bearing. So i took some aluminum mixer arms from the Gaui EP100 V2 aka Minizoom Pro V2, part 203580 (silver) or part 203640 (black). The original ball links can be removed and the Walkera ball links fit into the threads in the Gaui parts. The Gaui parts work with the plastic Walkera bladegrips, if you use the metal bladegrips some spacers are necessary. The Gaui arms are a bit shorter but that doesnt seem to change the feel.
Result: The heli feels much more precise and most unexpected pitch-jumps are gone. Still have to shorten the plasic on the bladeholders where the screw goes in.
Thanks to Don on RCGroups – i first saw the mod from him.
Here is a video from RCGroups user jaguar_5, showing the difference:
Put the HM52#1 landing gear (HM52#1-Z20) under the 4G6. The holes in the HM52 skids fit the front mounting holes of the 4G6 frame. Tailstruts can also be mounted without modification. HM52 alloy skids have been shortened.
UPDATE: Weight incl. screws and spacers 3,9gm. 1,5gm more than original LG (2,4gm).
Walkera 4#3B and the 2801Pro - Micro Heli Dreamteam
With the 2801Pro (2801 and 2801e should be similar) it is possible to setup the throttle curve, dual rate and expo for the 2406/A/B RX range. This is done by switching stickmode (COMPTB) to 2801, doing the setup, and then switching back to 2401 stickmode. The settings made will stay.
After going back into 2401 stickmode the bind should automaticly come back (if you left the rx connected to the battery). if not, just do a re-bind.
I had some problems with the tail not holding on pitchpumps with the Walkera 4G6 Helicopter. I’ve tried adjusting the rudder extent pot on the RX but even at maximum the tail wouldn’t hold. I always had some 20° turn on pitchpumps. I also played around with the gyro sense but that didn’t help either.
UPDATE: I’ve found that the pitchslider on the tail had too much play and caused the bad tail reaction. See my other post and vid on repairing the pitchslider. Still the longer carbon tail blades give a bit more power and a slighly better performance over the plastic ones.
I figured the tail might simply be too weak. So i made some tailblades from 0.6mm flat carbon, the same shape as the original ones, only about 5mm longer. They are 0.27gm before sanding and 0.26gm after sanding the profile and clear/white color (original plastic 0.3gm). The tail holds very well now, much more power. Also the piro rate is much higher now, i could turn the rudder extent way down and also decreased the D/R setting for the rudder channel. Only drawback is the increased risk of the blades hitting the ground – but im planning a new, longer carbon tailfin.
