The stock Walkera 4G6 mixer arms have way too much play, also no ball bearing. So i took some aluminum mixer arms from the Gaui EP100 V2 aka Minizoom Pro V2, part 203580 (silver) or part 203640 (black). The original ball links can be removed and the Walkera ball links fit into the threads in the Gaui parts. The Gaui parts work with the plastic Walkera bladegrips, if you use the metal bladegrips some spacers are necessary. The Gaui arms are a bit shorter but that doesnt seem to change the feel.
Result: The heli feels much more precise and most unexpected pitch-jumps are gone. Still have to shorten the plasic on the bladeholders where the screw goes in.
Thanks to Don on RCGroups – i first saw the mod from him.
Here is a video from RCGroups user jaguar_5, showing the difference:
finally it’s flying…
Walkera 2609 RX (from 4G6 Heli), Walkera 2801Pro TX, using PROGMIX for differential thrust, AP02 Outrunner Motors, XP 3A ESCs, proportional actuator mod elevator, 240mAh or 400mAh 20C Zippy, AUW 30gm (240mAh), AUW 34gm (400mAh)
Some impressions:
After all, it’s still an X-Twin Acrobat/Rolling Fury, it feels pretty similar to the stock version. Stability from the dihedral is still there but a bit lower (due to higher weight i guess).
What’s really great is that there is no more slow reaction or range issues. Also the roll-rate is much higher, i can really turn/roll it from side to side in no time. Still playing around with the mixcurve though. At first it was way to nervous around midstick aileron i.e. rolling like crazy. I’ve flattened the curve near midstick and thats much better.
Also it is much faster due to higher weight an the brushless motors.
I’ve put some tape on the props to get more thrust and this worked, static thrust of the plane is now near 30g with fresh lipo. I was getting about 20g static with one motor alone on my testbed – don’t know what happend. Even with a 1s 850mah Zippy only 30g for the plane.
Today was mostly calm but with some nasty gusts so not the perfect conditions, im really looking forward to fly it under perfect condition. Indoor is not an option because its way to fast (3-court gym wouldnt even be big enough i guess).
Little problem with the bl setup is that the motors / esc sometimes cut off on startup, i.e. i have to avoid pulling throttle down too far because the ESCs take about a second to initialize and start up the motors again – this second will often result in a crash.
It seems that i have gotten one bad motor that does this cutoff on startup more often, maybe ill replace that one. Or its the 3A ESCs that are to weak.
The elevator actuator seems to be at it’s limit with this setup. Not enough torque. I’ve tried to make the elevator area bigger with some tape but then the actuator cannot pull the elevator all the way due to the airflow from the props. So maybe i’ll go for a 1.5g Spektrum servo.
Whats really great is that the thing still has mad power with 34g AUW (400mAh Zippy).
To sum it up, the RX/TX with mixing option, super fast reaction and no range issues is the best part, the BL motors performance and cutoffs are not quite perfect yet. Overall its still an acrobat / fury and i like the mod for that.
X-Twin Acrobat elevator actuator controlled via an old Walkera servo board from a WK03-02 (4#3B) servo. First step towards the 2.4Ghz brushless X-Twin.
Actuator: 50 Ohm
SMD Pot on the servo board: 5 kOhm (for centering)
Actuator soldered to the servo motor output
Put the HM52#1 landing gear (HM52#1-Z20) under the 4G6. The holes in the HM52 skids fit the front mounting holes of the 4G6 frame. Tailstruts can also be mounted without modification. HM52 alloy skids have been shortened.
UPDATE: Weight incl. screws and spacers 3,9gm. 1,5gm more than original LG (2,4gm).
I had some problems with the tail not holding on pitchpumps with the Walkera 4G6 Helicopter. I’ve tried adjusting the rudder extent pot on the RX but even at maximum the tail wouldn’t hold. I always had some 20° turn on pitchpumps. I also played around with the gyro sense but that didn’t help either.
UPDATE: I’ve found that the pitchslider on the tail had too much play and caused the bad tail reaction. See my other post and vid on repairing the pitchslider. Still the longer carbon tail blades give a bit more power and a slighly better performance over the plastic ones.
I figured the tail might simply be too weak. So i made some tailblades from 0.6mm flat carbon, the same shape as the original ones, only about 5mm longer. They are 0.27gm before sanding and 0.26gm after sanding the profile and clear/white color (original plastic 0.3gm). The tail holds very well now, much more power. Also the piro rate is much higher now, i could turn the rudder extent way down and also decreased the D/R setting for the rudder channel. Only drawback is the increased risk of the blades hitting the ground – but im planning a new, longer carbon tailfin.
I just opened the 2801Pro from my 4G6 (great little helicopter) because i didn’t like the trottle stick tension. Tension was too strong and i dont like the snapping.
To get rid of the snapping i carefully sanded down the little plasic teeth inside the throttle stick mechanics. A very small amount of grease on the plasic and the metal locking-part makes the throttle stick movement even smoother.
I wanted to be able to adjust the tension screw without opening the Tx casing, so i drilled a 4mm hole into the back of the Tx.
Walkera 2801 Pro throttle stick tension adjustment mod
PicooZ Pluto (Havoc) actuators controlled by servoboards and the Walkera 2406 Rx (2.4GHz). Centering magnets used. Second vid down is a little flight demo.
The lady is flying. 100mAh lipo, Walkera 5G6 4-1, servoboard mod proportional tailmotor for 3rd channel. 6:30 flighttime. Based on the famous IR Toy Airwolf helicopter. Build log here.
lil’ demo in the livingroom with my modified Walkera 4#3B helicopter: backward circles, piros etc.
CQE Flash carbon blades, bell head mod (see my post here), ADH50L / XP 7A 20T pinion, 2.9g tail / flea, RX 2406B.
Before I start: This mod really does make a huge difference. It will make the 4#3B helicopter responsive like never before, self stabilizing and not rolling in any other direction than your stick input. See my videos here.
But only if the flybar angle is set exactly to 45°. If its not, you will end up with the same performance as in the known Bell/Hiller Mod or the other available b/h mods with the original 90° flybar. However with this mod the flybar angle can be set. I’m working on an improvement in how to set the angle exactly AND have it stay that way (thinking liquid metal, loctite, epoxy, bigger screw…) Maybe someone will come up with the perfect solution.
